BBQ Chicken

That’s BBQ as in, “Best of the Best Quality,” not barbeque. Because, of course, it’s deep-fried — in olive oil, which seems to permeate the meat, rendering it fragrant and unctuous (if dry on the breast). Here, however, the meat is the bedrock below the fissured, folded, and layered landscape of uniformly crunchy crust. So crunchy, it shatters when chewed; so crunchy, it endures the twin trials of travel and refrigeration. Yessir, it’s crunchy (five pieces, $9.45). And the jumbo-sized double-crunch chicken wings (ten pieces, $9.95) are indeed very nearly doubly crunchy (also spicy).

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