Food lives up to the scenery at Feast & Fareway

Golf club restaurant includes a view of the bridge

Brioche french toast with a side of Coronado Bridge
  • Brioche french toast with a side of Coronado Bridge

The Coronado Bridge turned 50 last week, and gazing up at its swerving blue span, I experienced a small jolt of pride that the iconic bridge representing our city is not just another suspension bridge. Robert Mosher’s design still feels modern without resembling a science fiction (ahem, Boston).

Coronado Municipal Golf Course

2000 Visalia Row, Coronado

I had plenty of time to admire the bridge while dining on the patio of Feast & Fareway, the new restaurant installed at the Coronado Golf Course. A product of the same hospitality group responsible for North Park Breakfast Co. and a small army of Breakfast Republics, the golf club eatery has plenty of breakfast chops, and serves pancakes, benedicts, and other egg dishes from 7 in the morning til 3pm. I learned it’s easy to make a simple brioche French toast look exciting by photographing it in front of a putting green backdrop with that famous bridge looming overhead.

Overachieving golf club fish tacos

Overachieving golf club fish tacos

Even without the French toast, the view is stunning: a manicured green of the fairway, braced against complementing blue of the bay, bridge, and sky. To be fair, it would be just this beautiful regardless which restaurant served whatever quality food. A dining patio on this spot would maintain the same serene tone set by upper-class leisure activity and pristine landscaping. But I dig the French toast ($9), even without the upgrade to bananas foster ($10) or apple crumble a la mode ($12). The crust is crisp and sweet, the center so delicate it almost melts.

A cobb salad is about as exciting as golf carts, but good enough in this soothing golf course atmosphere.

A cobb salad is about as exciting as golf carts, but good enough in this soothing golf course atmosphere.

Lunchtime didn’t disappoint either. I’ll tell you without prompting that I greatly mistrust tacos any place but a dedicated Mexican restaurant. I don’t know what inspired me to order fish tacos at the golf club spot — maybe I wanted to catch it in the act of overstepping. But the fried cod tacos ($10) here were thoroughly satisfying. I’d have appreciated more salsa than just the pico de gallo and white sauce, but the fresh tortillas and cabbage laid a worthy bed for the well-seasoned and crunchy batter.

This is simple scratch fare, nothing as dazzling as the view. For example, the chunks of smoked turkey breast on a cobb salad ($12) looked less appetizing than they tasted, and we can suppose everything’s bound to taste better in this atmosphere, even the vegetarian and vegan options. To that end, gorgonzola kicked up the enjoyment in a three-cheese grilled cheese on sourdough ($11), and the accompanying roasted tomato bisque completed the meal admirably, despite my trepidation. This vegan soup was made with undetectable coconut milk.

The environment could play a role, but I think this food at these prices would get a thumbs up even if I didn’t enjoy it while watching birds and butterflies frolic around the golf course a few feet away. Add the availability of all-day cocktails, and it’s easy to see this place becoming a popular mealtime refuge, even among non-golfers like me. And, as I watched the afternoon traffic slowly grind its way toward downtown on that bridge, I started to think it might be a good spot to grab a cocktail and hang out through happy hour.

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