Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

The hidden food of Barona

Feisty Kate's, Ho Wan Noodle Shop, Barona Oaks Steakhouse

Can't resist Ho Wan Noodle Shop, next to Kate's
Can't resist Ho Wan Noodle Shop, next to Kate's

‘The long and winding road,” sing the Beatles on this bus’s sound system. And, boy, have they nailed it. I look out the bus window and see rocks, bluffs, isolated houses with dusty trucks in their yards. Horses watch us over their corral railings.

Chili fries for $3.50 — part of my wacko two-course meal.

Then we come up and over and into a valley with a bunch of scattered buildings, car parks, and, hey, a parking structure, a hotel, a casino, and beyond, somewhere further along the valley, the Barona Museum and cultural center. I grab a minibus down there, because I want to see a chef who’s come to talk about Kumeyaay food. I’ve always thought acorns could make the basis for a truly San Diego bread. So I wanna listen, and I want to throw that idea at him, see if he laughs or maybe thrusts a million-dollar contract in my face, har-de-har.

Sweet congee for $4.88 — nutty, beany, warm on the belly, gentle

Long story short: never really get to talk, because there’s another couple dozen people who also want his undivided attention. Sigh. Well, guess I could eat. I’m famished.

First I’ve got to get back to the main action. The casino. I ask one of the ladies which way I have to walk.

Feisty Kate's — home of the winningest deals in the casino

“Sir, I wouldn’t do that,” she says. Victoria. “We have coyotes out there, and they’re starting to have their families. Meet a pack of those hungry critters and we could lose a customer. I’m going to call you a shuttle.”

And she does. Jes’ for li’l ol’ me. I’m impressed that they care that much.

Sponsored
Sponsored

So, now I’m in the main casino. I kinda follow my nose. Wander past what looks like their main buffet. “Seasons Fresh,” think it’s called. All right! Lobster, steaks, all you can eat. Except, ulp! You pay $44 for the privilege. Today’s price. What happened to casino prices?

I head around the corner, into a way-big food court. Starts with the 24-hour Sage Café, with not bad prices. Like $8.95 for an “Iipay Benedict” breakfast, $11.95 for a New York steak and eggs, ten bucks for any omelet, $7.95 for bacon or sausage and eggs, $3.95 for flapjacks, short stack. And breakfast’s on 24 hours a day.

Oriental chicken salad’s $11.95, and if you want cheap and healthy, it’s $5.95 for an iceberg wedge with cotija cheese and bacon. Sandwiches are $8-10, half-pound burgers (or 6-oz grilled chicken breast), or spam and fried rice are $8.95. Big plates like baby back pork ribs start at $14.95 (half rack, full is $19.95). And, uh, steak and lobster’s $40.95.

They don’t stop there, Bolalo oxtail soup (we’re talking Filipino) is $11.95. “This item is available 24 hours a day,” it says. Guess Barona has a loyal Filipino following.

And, wow. Checked the time. Buses only every hour. Gotta have something quick. So moving on down the line here, Italian Cucina, Plaza Grill, Barona Oaks Steakhouse, and Ho Wan Noodle Shop, all mostly open 5 p.m.–10 p.m. And a rack of smaller outlets like Three Amigos and, hey, Feisty Kate’s Burgers & Malts. She’s next to the Ho Wan, a basically Vietnamese noodle shop. The two of them look the most crowded. Guess I’ll follow the crowd.

So I’m up to Feisty Kate’s counter. The guy ahead of me, turns out, is picking up a moby steaming plate of chili-fries. Oh, wow. This chilly night, chili fries? That would fit the ticket.

“How much?” I ask him.

“I can’t believe it, but $3.50,” he says. “And no taxes. This is Indian land. And 50-cent gelatos, too.”

Huh. “I’ll have what he’s having,” I say to the gal, Tannia.

Here’s the thing: While I’m waiting for my little buzzer thing to buzz, I can’t resist wandering through to Ho Wan. Because I notice they’re basically Vietnamese. Have banh mi, like their #5, BBQ pork, for $4.25. But what hooks me is a “specials” sign, something about congee. Congee = Chinese porridge, which I’ve always loved. They’re offering standard congee choices starting at $2.95 for plain congee and topping out at $28 for abalone and chicken congee. But the one I notice is the sweet congee, for $4.88. Karla, the gal behind the counter (who tells me Ho Wan means “Good Luck” in Cantonese), says yes, sweet is beautiful.

Result: I’m sitting, with 20 minutes to spare, with this wacko two-course meal in front of me. The mountain of a ground meat and onion mess on fries topped by melted cheese, and with a pretty tasty house hot sauce I pour over it all, plus this bowl of slightly pink Chinese porridge, steaming its sweet raisin and bean and bulgur wheat and rice fumes up my nostrils. In Asia, it’s what you have for breakfast, or if you’re feeling off. But sweet congee? Never had it. A new gastro experience. At Barona.

I take my first slurp. Mm. Nutty, beany, warm on the belly, gentle. Truth be known, this could be a complete meal, too. Also, what a perfect late-night snack to warm your gut, calm you down. Man. Gentle on my mind. It’s so good I forget to go get one of their 50-cent bargain gelatos.

Then I’m in the bus, heading down into the complete black of the long and winding road of Wildcat Canyon. It’s like leaving Shangri-La, descending back to reality. Guess I should be grateful I’m not coming down like some fellers here, stone broke. Me, I’m just a little broken inside. But you know that story.

The Place: Feisty Kate’s, in the food court of Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 888.722-7662, or 619-328-6009

Hours: 11 a.m.–2 a.m. daily

Prices: Buffalo chicken wings, $5.50 for 6 pieces; quarter-pound burger, fries, $3.50; chili fries, $3.50

The Place: Ho Wan Noodle Shop (n.b. it will be closed for expansion through May, but the food will be available through Sage Café), 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 1-888-722-7662, or 619-443-2300

Hours: 24/7

Prices: Sweet congee, $4.88; plain congee, $2.95; lean pork congee with century egg, $6.95; chicken or beef congee, $6.95; seafood congee, $8.95; abalone and chicken congee, $28; BBQ pork banh mi with pickled daikon, $4.25; beef banh mi, $4.25; veggie banh mi, $4.50; Thai-style tom yum noodle soup, $11.95;

Bus: Barona Casino bus

Nearest Bus Stop: El Cajon Transit Center, at trolley stop

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

March is typically windy, Sage scents in the foothills

Butterflies may cross the county
Can't resist Ho Wan Noodle Shop, next to Kate's
Can't resist Ho Wan Noodle Shop, next to Kate's

‘The long and winding road,” sing the Beatles on this bus’s sound system. And, boy, have they nailed it. I look out the bus window and see rocks, bluffs, isolated houses with dusty trucks in their yards. Horses watch us over their corral railings.

Chili fries for $3.50 — part of my wacko two-course meal.

Then we come up and over and into a valley with a bunch of scattered buildings, car parks, and, hey, a parking structure, a hotel, a casino, and beyond, somewhere further along the valley, the Barona Museum and cultural center. I grab a minibus down there, because I want to see a chef who’s come to talk about Kumeyaay food. I’ve always thought acorns could make the basis for a truly San Diego bread. So I wanna listen, and I want to throw that idea at him, see if he laughs or maybe thrusts a million-dollar contract in my face, har-de-har.

Sweet congee for $4.88 — nutty, beany, warm on the belly, gentle

Long story short: never really get to talk, because there’s another couple dozen people who also want his undivided attention. Sigh. Well, guess I could eat. I’m famished.

First I’ve got to get back to the main action. The casino. I ask one of the ladies which way I have to walk.

Feisty Kate's — home of the winningest deals in the casino

“Sir, I wouldn’t do that,” she says. Victoria. “We have coyotes out there, and they’re starting to have their families. Meet a pack of those hungry critters and we could lose a customer. I’m going to call you a shuttle.”

And she does. Jes’ for li’l ol’ me. I’m impressed that they care that much.

Sponsored
Sponsored

So, now I’m in the main casino. I kinda follow my nose. Wander past what looks like their main buffet. “Seasons Fresh,” think it’s called. All right! Lobster, steaks, all you can eat. Except, ulp! You pay $44 for the privilege. Today’s price. What happened to casino prices?

I head around the corner, into a way-big food court. Starts with the 24-hour Sage Café, with not bad prices. Like $8.95 for an “Iipay Benedict” breakfast, $11.95 for a New York steak and eggs, ten bucks for any omelet, $7.95 for bacon or sausage and eggs, $3.95 for flapjacks, short stack. And breakfast’s on 24 hours a day.

Oriental chicken salad’s $11.95, and if you want cheap and healthy, it’s $5.95 for an iceberg wedge with cotija cheese and bacon. Sandwiches are $8-10, half-pound burgers (or 6-oz grilled chicken breast), or spam and fried rice are $8.95. Big plates like baby back pork ribs start at $14.95 (half rack, full is $19.95). And, uh, steak and lobster’s $40.95.

They don’t stop there, Bolalo oxtail soup (we’re talking Filipino) is $11.95. “This item is available 24 hours a day,” it says. Guess Barona has a loyal Filipino following.

And, wow. Checked the time. Buses only every hour. Gotta have something quick. So moving on down the line here, Italian Cucina, Plaza Grill, Barona Oaks Steakhouse, and Ho Wan Noodle Shop, all mostly open 5 p.m.–10 p.m. And a rack of smaller outlets like Three Amigos and, hey, Feisty Kate’s Burgers & Malts. She’s next to the Ho Wan, a basically Vietnamese noodle shop. The two of them look the most crowded. Guess I’ll follow the crowd.

So I’m up to Feisty Kate’s counter. The guy ahead of me, turns out, is picking up a moby steaming plate of chili-fries. Oh, wow. This chilly night, chili fries? That would fit the ticket.

“How much?” I ask him.

“I can’t believe it, but $3.50,” he says. “And no taxes. This is Indian land. And 50-cent gelatos, too.”

Huh. “I’ll have what he’s having,” I say to the gal, Tannia.

Here’s the thing: While I’m waiting for my little buzzer thing to buzz, I can’t resist wandering through to Ho Wan. Because I notice they’re basically Vietnamese. Have banh mi, like their #5, BBQ pork, for $4.25. But what hooks me is a “specials” sign, something about congee. Congee = Chinese porridge, which I’ve always loved. They’re offering standard congee choices starting at $2.95 for plain congee and topping out at $28 for abalone and chicken congee. But the one I notice is the sweet congee, for $4.88. Karla, the gal behind the counter (who tells me Ho Wan means “Good Luck” in Cantonese), says yes, sweet is beautiful.

Result: I’m sitting, with 20 minutes to spare, with this wacko two-course meal in front of me. The mountain of a ground meat and onion mess on fries topped by melted cheese, and with a pretty tasty house hot sauce I pour over it all, plus this bowl of slightly pink Chinese porridge, steaming its sweet raisin and bean and bulgur wheat and rice fumes up my nostrils. In Asia, it’s what you have for breakfast, or if you’re feeling off. But sweet congee? Never had it. A new gastro experience. At Barona.

I take my first slurp. Mm. Nutty, beany, warm on the belly, gentle. Truth be known, this could be a complete meal, too. Also, what a perfect late-night snack to warm your gut, calm you down. Man. Gentle on my mind. It’s so good I forget to go get one of their 50-cent bargain gelatos.

Then I’m in the bus, heading down into the complete black of the long and winding road of Wildcat Canyon. It’s like leaving Shangri-La, descending back to reality. Guess I should be grateful I’m not coming down like some fellers here, stone broke. Me, I’m just a little broken inside. But you know that story.

The Place: Feisty Kate’s, in the food court of Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 888.722-7662, or 619-328-6009

Hours: 11 a.m.–2 a.m. daily

Prices: Buffalo chicken wings, $5.50 for 6 pieces; quarter-pound burger, fries, $3.50; chili fries, $3.50

The Place: Ho Wan Noodle Shop (n.b. it will be closed for expansion through May, but the food will be available through Sage Café), 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 1-888-722-7662, or 619-443-2300

Hours: 24/7

Prices: Sweet congee, $4.88; plain congee, $2.95; lean pork congee with century egg, $6.95; chicken or beef congee, $6.95; seafood congee, $8.95; abalone and chicken congee, $28; BBQ pork banh mi with pickled daikon, $4.25; beef banh mi, $4.25; veggie banh mi, $4.50; Thai-style tom yum noodle soup, $11.95;

Bus: Barona Casino bus

Nearest Bus Stop: El Cajon Transit Center, at trolley stop

Comments
Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

San Diego Reader 2024 Music & Arts Issue

Favorite fakers: Baby Bushka, Fleetwood Max, Electric Waste Band, Oceans, Geezer – plus upcoming tribute schedule
Next Article

San Diego's Uptown Planners challenged by renters from Vibrant Uptown

Two La Jolla planning groups fight for predominance
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.