Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Specialty of the House: Searsucker Entree

A Feast! feature in which your humble correspondent visits a restaurant and orders the specialty of the house.

Yee-haw!

"It's between the tongue & cheek ($26) and the butt ($24)," mused The Wife innocently after hearing our waitress's suggestions. She went for the butt, and she was glad she did.

"Look like two big Christmas hams."

As it happened, the butt was actually pork shoulder, but shoulder doesn't lend itself to appealing names. Who wants a chip on the shoulder, or worse, a cold shoulder? Butts, on the other hand, have been praised routinely since the time of Ovid and Jack Lemmon:

"Like Jello on springs!"

What arrived on her plate wasn't quite Jello, but it certainly didn't require a knife:

"I wouldn't normally order pork shoulder in a restaurant," she said after a few rapturous bites of meat that fairly glowed pink. "I can throw a pork shoulder in the crock pot and get something good. But this, this is worth going out for." Why? "Start with this cube of bacon - not crisp, but not fatty, just firm and delicious. I wouldn't know how to do this, and that's what I want when I go to a restaurant. These cubes of apple, also firm but not undercooked, infused with - I'm guessing cardamom? I can taste the parsley! And the liquid smoke is present but not overpowering."

Speaking of liquid (and hamhanded segues), kudos to Searsucker on the wine. If you're gonna charge $11 for a Slovenian rose of Pinot Noir, it had better be good, and the pour had better be generous. It was both, a glass full of wine, and a wine full of strawberry and bracing minerality:

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

March is typically windy, Sage scents in the foothills

Butterflies may cross the county

A Feast! feature in which your humble correspondent visits a restaurant and orders the specialty of the house.

Yee-haw!

"It's between the tongue & cheek ($26) and the butt ($24)," mused The Wife innocently after hearing our waitress's suggestions. She went for the butt, and she was glad she did.

"Look like two big Christmas hams."

As it happened, the butt was actually pork shoulder, but shoulder doesn't lend itself to appealing names. Who wants a chip on the shoulder, or worse, a cold shoulder? Butts, on the other hand, have been praised routinely since the time of Ovid and Jack Lemmon:

"Like Jello on springs!"

What arrived on her plate wasn't quite Jello, but it certainly didn't require a knife:

"I wouldn't normally order pork shoulder in a restaurant," she said after a few rapturous bites of meat that fairly glowed pink. "I can throw a pork shoulder in the crock pot and get something good. But this, this is worth going out for." Why? "Start with this cube of bacon - not crisp, but not fatty, just firm and delicious. I wouldn't know how to do this, and that's what I want when I go to a restaurant. These cubes of apple, also firm but not undercooked, infused with - I'm guessing cardamom? I can taste the parsley! And the liquid smoke is present but not overpowering."

Speaking of liquid (and hamhanded segues), kudos to Searsucker on the wine. If you're gonna charge $11 for a Slovenian rose of Pinot Noir, it had better be good, and the pour had better be generous. It was both, a glass full of wine, and a wine full of strawberry and bracing minerality:

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

It's the weather, stupid

I can't imagine a single New Yorker who wouldn't rather be here.
Next Article

Veggies and Art at Alchemy in South Park

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.