Name: Matt West
Surfing: Mission Beach
Pre-surf music: Dave Matthews, reggae
After-surf food: California burrito with pollo asada
“Girls in the water is probably the sexiest thing ever; it’s hot,” says Matt. His friend agrees enthusiastically in the background.
Matt’s been surfing since he was 11 years old, when he began with his best friend. Since his move back to San Diego from Orange County, he’s been hitting the waves even more. His favorite break?
“Blacks is really nice; it’s protected from the wind and has better waves. It’s a lot of fun.”
Any battle scars?
“I got stabbed,” he says, laughing. “I got tossed over the falls on a wave and one of the fins on my board stabbed me. I didn’t have stitches; I was lucky.”
What does he think of the surf environment in San Diego?
“It’s really cool, very respectful. I’ve seen a lot of guys out in the lineup that see a piece of trash float by and pick it up, put it in their wetsuit, and throw it away when they go in.” He’s never been hassled or had to deal with territorial surfers. Matt himself is pretty mellow and laughs through his current illness.
“I’m sick right now. I just went out surfing a day after it rained. That might have caused it. I usually try to avoid going into bad water.”